Tuesday, 21 July 2020
Rainbow's End and, later, home.
Sunday, 19 July 2020
Two-up to Auckland.
Motorbike trip, two-up, to Auckland
16 July
Hamilton to Auckland, a two-night stay in a Backpackers' Hostel, with little son C.
Although we'd intended to leave at midday, we were ready to go at 11am. At the last minute, I changed rucksacks, from a a computer rucksack that was bulky with lots of hyper-protected pockets that things could be slid in, to a normal rucksack that I could actually put my camera in. I mention this because, when we arrived in Auckland, I discovered I had left my mobile phone and my glasses in the computer rucksack in Hamilton.
Anyway, I filled up the two Oxford water-proof bags that came with the panniers. They are quite neat, with a long and wide velcro top. My bag was a little more full than C's, in part because I am larger and in part because I brought a pair of shoes while the lad only has one pair when he is with me. I do find myself querying where all the shoes and flip-flops I buy him end up, but that would be churlish. I was a little surprised and disappointed to find that my bag could hardly fit into the saddle bag and that the dimensions do not really correspond. It became difficult to squeeze in my camera into the panniers; this camera is turning into a problem and I will need to get a smaller one.
A little lesson from this road trip is that the two panniers and a rucksack are only just enough space. I do not know if I brought too much stuff, and really won't know until I return home on Saturday. Forgetting my glasses and my mobile phone is not really the best start.
The trip north went well. From home, I went north along Wairere drive, then on to Te Rapa and I stopped at the BP station to fill up. The little lad wanted a chocolate Primo, drank half, and left me to carry the other half. While filling up, I had a friendly comment from a car driver about the chances of rain.
Then it was on to the Waikato Expressway. It was a little chilly and there were a few drops of rain, but nothing too serious. We stopped an hour later at the Bombay Hills and went into a cafe called 'Autobahn.' It was surprisingly full, with many grey-haired clients. I bought a pork pie, which was a little dear, but pleasing. The little lad only wanted a Fanta. He finished the Primo and finished the Fanta. We continued on to the Expressway but there was quite a commotion, with police sirens and multiple police cars. One car was partially off the on-ramp to the Expressway, pointed in the wrong direction and an uninjured person was talking to one policeman with two squad cars already in attendance. New Zealand police are wonderful at taking care of people, but their default action is to close roads for hours on end as they sift through evidence. When I want to arrive somewhere, I much prefer the police of the United Arab Emirates, who would push cars, injured people still inside, off the road to get traffic flowing. So I hastened past, before the NZ Police closed the road down to investigate.
There was noticeably more traffic. I
did a steady 105-110 km/h, so slightly above the speed limit, and had
a number of cars, trucks and utes in front, beside and overtaking.
Once we were in Auckland I pointed out the target destination,
Rainbow's End theme park, New Zealand's only theme park. We continued
on State Highway One till I saw the signs for “Port”. It was a
little struggle to get into the right lanes but we managed. At one
stage, I realised that I was going up Queen Street and the
Backpackers' was on the other side, so I turned off, did a quick
u-turn and reappeared, ready to turn right on to Queen Street. A
motorcycle policeman pulled up alongside me, but he obviously had not
seen my u-turn (or else was not bothered about it!) and we had a
conversation as we waited at the red light. He asked about my bike,
complimented the young lad on his jacket, and, in response, said
there were 28 motorcycle policemen in New Zealand. He was on a large
Honda, 350 kg he said, and I commented that I found the 220 kg
V-Strom a little tricky at times. The lights changed and we moved on
our separate ways. I pulled in to the Backpackers' and was able to
park right outside between two large civic plant pots.
The reception was messy and there was a curious smell to the place, like a mixture of unwashed clothes, unwashed plates, cooking and close-pressed humanity. Many people seemed to be hanging out with no real purpose and I wondered if this was the effect of Covid-19.
C and I went up to our room and it was pretty basic, with two single beds, an en-suite bathroom with a shower and toilet. There was a television, but when I tried to get it going I found that one channel worked well and the others were poor. I gave up my television over a year ago, and since then the channels have not improved.
I took a quick trip out to the motorbike in order to put it into a better and more legal place. Then C and I took a walk to find some supper. He wanted a pizza, but I was not hungry. Still, we found a good place by the port to eat. It was a good day.
Wednesday, 15 July 2020
Practicalities of Motorbike Tour, 2021.
Motorcycle touring practicalities.
Vehicle
Suzuki V-Strom DL650A, NZ Registration B6ZJG, Frame
number: Engine number:
Insurance;
Extras
Panniers, tank bag, little backseat bag, rucksack,
lock, chain lock, Navman, bungy cords, spare petrol tank, camelbak water,
Clothing
4 x underwear, 4 x socks, 2 x long-sleeve shirts, 2 x
tee-shirts, swimming trunks, small towel, toiletries including detergent,
shorts, jandals, jacket, motorcycle jacket, motorbike jeans, waterproof jacket
and trousers,
Food
Water bottles, cereals?
Money
Credit card, cash, bank accounts,
Camping
Tent, sleeping bag. Knife, fork, spoon, cup, bowl. Sharp
knife, corkscrew/bottle-opener. Rope/cord.
Technology
Mobile phone, camera, GoPro, computer, paper notebook
+ pens, kindle, flashlight,
Finances
Storage of goods in New Zealand; $174/month, for 3m x
3m. I’d have to get rid of some items, but I could keep much till the return.
Child support, $274/fortnight, $550/month. More or less $730/month. One year
would total $8760.
Daily costs; internet suggests US$30/day, which would
be about NZ$40/day, $280/week, $1260/month, $14,600 for the year. In addition,
airplane flights and freight. Flight and freight from NZ to Australia = $3,000,
Australia to Santiago de Chile (or Auckland to Santiago) = $5000. From Mexico
or USA to Europe, $5000. Then an Asia to Auckland; $5000. Total = $14,600 +
$15,000 (Auckland to Santiago, USA/Mexico to Europe, Asia to Auckland) =
$19,600.
Add on ferries. Add on repairs, tyres, etc. Add on
petrol.
Australia loop; Mike Hyde’s book has 17,350 km.
South America; Gabriel Landry, Quebec to Argentina 3
months and 20,000 km.
A full tank of 15 litres does about 450 km, so
Australia would be 39 full tanks at ?? NZ$26 per tank, perhaps Aus$24/tank, =
NZ$1002.
South America to North America would be 45 full tanks,
NZ$1155.
Sunday, 12 July 2020
Auckland and Orewa
11 July 2020
337 kilometres.
Auckland is Te Reo Maori for 'over priced real estate'. No, I am kidding about the language. William Hobson was Lieutenant Governor in 1840 when the settlement was established and he named it after his boss, the Earl of Auckland, who was the First Lord of the Admiralty. Did it help Hobson gain a peerage, perhaps a baronial estate in Buckinghamshire? I do not know. Lord Auckland is described by Wikipedia as lacking in talent and indifferent to the history and culture of India, where he was Governor-General. The city is named in honour of someone who never saw the place, and that should already give a sense of the pointlessness and emptiness at the core of New Zealand's largest city. Many non-Aucklanders grumble that it is not really New Zealand, but that reflects the empty premise, which is that people can point to clear culture, traditions, ethnicity and languages that are “New Zealand,” and thus identify what is “not New Zealand.”
I spent Saturday morning typing and at two libraries seeking a motorbike touring book of New Zealand. I had read Mike Hyde's motorbike tour book of Australia and I knew that he had written about touring New Zealand. I found the book in Hamilton's Central Library and stuck it in my saddlebag next to Isabel Allende's “La Casa de los Espiritus.” One of many thoughts about what I should do next year, in 2021, is to do a Ph.D, but I tried before and could not keep up the work, so that is not a relevant possibility. A key aspect to a Ph.D is a reading list, and I thought that if I want to do a tour of New Zealand, Australia or South America, then I should make such a reading list. So I need a literature review.
Moving on to the moving object, the
Suzuki. I left “The Tron,” or “The City of the Future,”
Hamilton for the “City of Sails,” Auckland, shortly before
midday. The new expressway made a lovely ride north but as I
approached New Zealand's largest city the traffic became worse and
the driving standards dropped. I see this as part of my essential
training: if I plan to ride a motorbike in Sydney, Melbourne,
Santiago de Chile, Buenos Aires or the city of Mexico, then I had
better do well in Auckland! I had no particular destination in mind,
just the idea of some lunch and I had left my GPS in the car, which
was being repaired. I followed signs to the port and found myself
heading down Queen's Street, a major road down to the port. I looked
for somewhere to park, but no luck. I rode up and down a few small
streets and then noticed a scooter and a small motorbike parked in
front of a tree and I left my bike at the next tree. On one side was
a “Tepid Swimming Pool” and the other side was a Train Sushi.
Both concepts are puzzling. Why tepid? Sure, I get that the different
types of sushi are on a belt and revolve in front of the clients, but
does that make it a train?
I locked the bike and took a walk. Rain
poured down heavily and I remembered that I had left my baseball cap
in the saddle bags. I found that I had expertly parked by the Viaduct
and so the trendy and beautiful of Auckland were hanging out by the
yachts, spending on food and drink. I wandered past a few places,
trying to choose somewhere reasonably priced that looked fine. I took
a loop around and found myself back at the bike. Nearby was a coffee
shop with a special offer chalked on a blackboard. Burger, chips and
coffee, $20. It was good.
I took a stroll and admired the personalised number plates. This one suggests that the owner likes to w**k a lot and he is proud of it.
Refreshed, I rejoined the traffic of
Auckland and saw the signs for State Highway One, north to Whangarei.
Despite living for 12 years in New Zealand I have never been north of
the city but I once was offered a temporary teaching post in Orewa,
along the Hibiscus Coast.
The road north was busy but manageable
and enjoyable. There were clear signs for a toll road but also for a
free road which would go through Orewa. It turned out to be a very
touristy town, with a line of expensive sea-front houses and numerous
small cafes, restaurants and other essentials for the day tripper. I
had a cheerful conversation with a group who had enjoyed some alcohol
with their lunch. I saw a small cafe called Tasca with a sign for
“Estrella Damm, Barcelona.” Estrella is not my favourite Spanish
beer, but it was a reminder of my time in Catalonia.
I ordered a
coffee and asked the manager if he was Spanish, but he was from
Turkey. Such is the world. A Turk in New Zealand running a Spanish
tapas bar. It could explain the grilled haloumi on the menu. In the
cafe there was a couple, both middle-aged, who looked like they were
on a date. She did not speak English well, and he had that loud voice
that revealed his belief that if he spoke loudly enough she would understand
him. After the coffee, I took a walk to the beach to search for an
ideal camera shot, but the ideal framed shot, with trees, had various
people sitting and eating, in a very un-photogenic way. The couple
from the cafe appeared and she clambered on to the rocks to demand a
photo from her companion. Once that was taken she was in a panic as
she struggled to get back off the rocks. I looked at my watch and
realised that it would be dark by the time I returned home. I left
them to their date.
I took a more scenic route back to
Auckland and was doing a leisurely 80 km/h, the speed limit, when I
was overtaken by two aggressive Harley-Davidson riders doing
considerably more than the speed limit. They roared past. The return
route was pleasing. I re-crossed the Auckland Harbour Bridge and yet
again enjoyed the fine views of the sky-scrapers and the big city. On
both sides there were hundreds of yachts, carefully moored in their
marinas. I wondered if living in a yacht was permitted, given that
the price of living on land in Auckland is out of the reach for most
people.
On the motorway south I was riding well and comfortably, despite the traffic. I overtook one car though and pulled in front of it, glanced in my rear view mirror and saw that the driver, of a race and gender that I won't mention, was looking right and had accelerated to be practically on top of me. I accelerated and then let her overtake me. Another vehicle, an unexciting old station wagon, was zig-zagging from left lane to centre, to right, to centre, right again and was, at each lane change, gaining a car space. The car pulled off after a few kilometres, having gained perhaps ten car-lengths through his maneuvers. There were no other incidents on my return and I was home in time to Skype my mother and reheat some leftover food.
Saturday, 11 July 2020
The Coromandel
475 km, 10 July 2020
There is a Coromandel Coast along the south-east of India. The Dutch sailors changed the pronunciation of Karimani to something easier to pronounce and, as a result, gave a name to an area of trading importance, which led to Royal Navy ship names and then the naming of a peninsula in New Zealand.
I rode my motorbike from Hamilton to the Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand. While I would love to explore the east coast of India, I will leave that to the future.
It was -1 degrees C when I left home to
drop off my son at my ex-wife's house. There is a flashing light on
the V-Strom to warn of cold weather. I know there will be some
motorcyclists who have never seen it, perhaps because they live in
warm climates or perhaps because they park the bike when winter
comes. I get a little frisson of excitement when the light is on as I
know that I am dicing with chance and I look carefully at corners and
shaded areas.
As I left Hamilton for Morrinsville the sun was in my eyes and the damp tarmac reflected, sometimes with a shiny blackness and sometimes with the harder grey colour of a drier road. The shiny black worried me as I wondered if it was black ice so I was careful with the throttle and kept my foot hovering over the rear brake. Glancing across fields I could see the lovely effect of the warming sun; where there was shade the grass was white with hoarfrost but grass in direct sun was green. I could feel the cold in my fingers despite my winter gloves. I had wanted to install heater grips the last time I had some improvements done to the motorbike, but they did not have enough time. Another task for next month, when the V-Strom needs the 12,000 km service.
The temperature rose slightly from 1
degree Centigrade to 3 degrees. I rode around Morrinsville, admiring
the statuesque cows, then continued to Paeroa, my planned stop for coffee.
Paeroa is Maori for ridge (pae) and long (roa) but it is most known
for its giant Lemon and Paeroa bottles. “L and P” is a lemonade
like fizzy drink, as the bottle labels claim, famous in New Zealand.
I like it. From Morrinsville to Paeroa the temperature warning light
flicked off and stated that it was 5 degree C, but soon after the
temperature dropped and the light came on. I was glad to enter the
cafe and ask for a long black coffee. My fingers painfully gained
warmth as I clutched the little cup. The break gave the sun time to
warm up, and the bike's temperature scale marked first an incredible
19 degrees, then a more reasonable 14 degrees.
I rode on to Thames. I think there is something special about a town called Thames and I love the old-style buildings on main street. I filled up with petrol and stared at a army field gun outside the Returned Services' Association. I thought about big objects in New Zealand towns; Morrinsville has a giant painted cow, and many others life-size painted cows around the town, Paeroa has two giant “L 'n' P” bottles, Turangi has a giant trout, Taihape has a giant gumboot, Rakaia has a giant salmon but all I could see in Thames was a field gun, life-size. There are other giant objects, and perhaps a tour of New Zealand could have a focus of giant objects in towns. The sheep in Te Kuiti, the giant carrot in Ohakune, the guitar in Gore. I paid for the petrol and rode north, wondering what Thames could offer, as the field gun lacked originality.
The Coromandel Peninsula road north of
Thames is beautiful, but challenging as it is is narrow with often a
sheer fall to the sea or rocks on the left side. The sea views were
beautiful, with the dark blue of the sea, the occasional views of the
distant, hazy hills across the Firth of Thames, the trees clustered
tightly on both sides, the rocks in the sea with perched cormorants
scanning for rash fish, shore fishermen patiently watching their rods
and boats lazily cruising to or from the deep ocean beyond. The
narrow road, sharp turns and one-lane bridges meant continual changes
in gear, from second up to third and fourth, and then drops down, and
I felt pleased at my corner-taking as I was shifting my weight
carefully across, I was counter-steering well, leaning forward, and
gripping the petrol tank with my knees.
Coromandel Town lacks a giant object.
It could do with one. It is a just a little far for the real estate
pandemonium that affects most of the peninsula and it even seems to
have a functioning fishing harbour though the bakery I went to just
offered generic meat pies, chicken and chips, and the usual soft
drinks. I selected a steak and blue cheese pie, then stood politely
while an old lady struggled with her umbrella, the tongs, the pie she
had selected, and the paper bag. I helped by holding her umbrella
while she gave up on the tongs to use her fingers. It was my turn
next. I struggled with the bike helmet, gloves, the tongs, the pie
and, what should have been apparent earlier, a bag that was only
barely big enough for the pie. I put the helmet on the ground, the
pie on the bag on the tray and then also used my fingers to slide the
pie into the paper bag. I saw the amused expressions of people behind
and, shamefacedly, decided I did not want to buy a drink.
Revitalised by the pie, which did
indeed have a taste of blue cheese, I headed east along Route 25 to
Whitianga, enjoying the curves, the sudden vistas of green fields,
distant sea and trees. I stopped to take some photos and a German
tourist admired the V-Strom. He was working near Hamilton, having
finished his university undergraduate studies just before lockdown.
He was with his younger sister, who was studying in a secondary
school. She was very complimentary about the New Zealand education
system, which is unusual as most Germans I have met complain about
the informality, the low level of learning and the excessive focus on
extra-curricular activities such as sports. I continued on to
Whitianga, buoyed by the conversation. After a few photos in
Whitianga I continued to Tairua, and then at the next junction, where
I had a choice of Auckland and Thames, or Whangamata and Tauranga, I
chose Whangamata. It was an idyllic road, snaking through a forest,
alongside rivers and with the added fun of one-lane bridges. At
Whangamata I stopped for a coffee, mostly because I wanted a break
and wanted some water. The coffee and the water were welcome, and I
appreciated the décor which included lyrics from songs. I was
tempted to boast of my knowledge of Pink Floyd, Queen, David Bowie,
Beatles, Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin lyrics to the barista, but,
as she was aged about 19 and ½ years old, I thought she would be
uninterested.
I proceeded on, singing a few lyrics to
myself, south, through Waihi, Katikati and Tauranga. I debated
whether to go on to Whakatane and to look for a Backpackers' Hostel
for the night but I had nothing, not even a toothbrush or a towel. I
was not even sure if, after all the Covid-19 problems, there would be
a Backpackers' open. It also started to get colder, with the
temperature dropping from 15 degrees to 9 degrees. I also thought of
the food I had at home; some bacon, some pesto sauce and spaghetti.
Twenty minutes' cooking, and at no cost, while a stay in Whakatane
would mean spending. So at Tauranga I took the road to Hamilton. This
involved crossing part of the Kaimai Ranges, which meant the
temperature dropped more. I enjoyed the ride up the range, but the
road down was more tricky as the road was wetter and I had a car
behind; on straight parts I could pull ahead but then I had to slow
for blind corners and he would catch up and sit close to my rear
wheel.
The rest of the road home was flat, and I was able to filter ahead of queuing traffic joining State Highway One. The sun had set which meant a drop in temperature, but, on the plus side, I was not riding into the sun. The last time I had been returning along Highway One I had to use my hand as a visor because I was riding directly into the setting sun. By Cambridge, Waikato, there is an exceptional section of the road with a 110 Km/h speed limit, in contrast to the 110 km/h limit in the rest of the country, so I was able to increase my speed. I was balancing cold fingers with a more prompt arrival home. It was good to get home, having completed 475 kilometres from approximately 9 am to 6.30 pm.